Ciao Bella! Remember the golden days of K-pop obsession? Yeah, me too. We, fangirls, swore a sacred pact to age gracefully... together with our Idols. Fast forward a decade (or two, whoops), and guess who's rocking the same hairstyle they debuted in 2000s? My idol, that's who. Meanwhile, I'm over here looking like a melted candle compared to their eternally youthful glow. Okay, enough with the self-pity party.
In the search for a way to rejuvenate, I found retinol has been the most widely known as an anti-aging ingredient. But here's the thing: with all this information overload, can we really trust the hype? Or is retinol just another kind of carrot that is crafted into luxury treatment by a marketing ploy? With all the articles I have been through, these are useful retinol’s functions and facts for my and your bothersome (in case you have one).
What is retinol exactly?
Retinol, a superstar in the skincare world, is a type of vitamin A, which belongs to the retinoid family (we'll dive deeper into this cool crew later). Unlike its cousin vitamin D, which our bodies can magically whip up with sunshine, vitamin A can only be obtained through our diets or skin absorption.
So, ditch the dreams of turning orange, load up on those carrots and other colorful fruits and veggies! They're a delicious way to get your daily dose of vitamin A, which your body then converts into retinol for all sorts of amazing benefits.
How does retinol work?
Many active ingredients work by interacting with receptors, a kind of protein which presents on cells. These interactions between the compound and the receptor trigger signals that act like messages, instructing the cells to behave in a desired way.
Retinoids, for example, interact with specific receptors called Retinoid Nuclear Receptors (RNRs) located on keratinocytes (skin cells). Through this interaction, retinoids send signals that tell the cells to perform various beneficial functions.
What is Retinol used for?
Long story short, retinol is used for anti-wrinkle treatments and this is why.
Retinol reduces the activity of the group of enzymes named MMP (matrix metalloproteinases), whose function is to break down collagen. Collagen is the main component of the extracellular matrix, the part that connects the cells.
Retinol helps cells turn over more quickly. This removes the dead skin cells, making it look more fresh and radiant.
It helps strengthen the epidermal layer - the outermost layer of your skin, like giving your skin a shield.
Retinol helps your skin retain the amount of glycosaminoglycan to keep it hydrated and plump. You can imagine a fresh apple and a wrinkled apple without water.
Side effects of retinol
Please note that retinol is not 'an instant noodles’, it takes at least 9-12 weeks of continuous use to see the benefit. Get ready to glow! But first, be prepared for a little adjustment period with retinol and some side effects such as:
Dryness
Peeling
Redness
Usually, these side effects are temporary and will go away after the adjustment period, ideally 2 weeks. If it does not stop, you should stop and consult the dermatologist for other alternatives.
Once again, skin care is not a "one-night-stand", it's a process of trial and innovation, depending on your own physical and genetic features.
References
Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019 Aug;36(4):392-397. doi: 10.5114/ada.2019.87443. Epub 2019 Aug 30. PMID: 31616211; PMCID: PMC6791161.
Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. PMID: 18046911; PMCID: PMC2699641.
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